View of Castello di Perno in Monforte d'Alba, overlooking much of the Barolo area
I’ve been able to visit dozens of Barolo producers during my trips to the area over the past two decades, and while I’ve met with many of the most renowned producers, I’m always eager to encounter lesser-known vintners, some of whom have only been crafting Barolo for a few vintages. Clear Zinc Bolts Manufacturers
The latest of these estates is Castello di Perno of Monforte d’Alba, situated in the southeastern reaches of the Barolo zone. For many years, the castle was the private home of Giulio Einaudi, one of the most famous publishers in Italy in the latter part of the 20th century. Today, the castello is owned by Gregorio Gitti, a lawyer from Milan and professor of law at the University of Milan. Gitti purchased Castello di Perno in 2012, with the goal to make the castle a cultural home, while also reserving a space inside for national and international art exhibitions.
Gitti is passionate about wine, and in 2013, he decided to restore an old winery near the castle adjacent to the Castelletto vineyard in Monforte. He visited with Gian Luca Colombo, an enologist and grape grower about being the winemaker for this new project. Colombo produces wines under his own label at his estate in Roddi, and is also a consulting winemaker for several estates in the Barolo zone, and agreed to work with Gitti. “We did understand each other very quickly and I was curious to approach Castelletto and Gramolere, vineyards that I did not know at that time.”
The first wines were produced from the 2014 vintage; today the winery releases different versions of Barolo, along with Langhe Nebbiolo, Dolcetto d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti, Nizza, Alta Langa sparkling wine, and Langhe Nascetta, a lovely dry white made from the indigenous Nascetta variety.
Matteo Calvaruso, Brand Manager, Castello di Perno
I spoke with Matteo Calvaruso, brand ambassador for the winery, who explained the philosophy of their wine portfolio. “We strongly believe in the authenticity of what each territory for important and certain elements can provide, this is the reason why we decided to not produce a Langhe Chardonnay but Langhe Nascetta, the only white native grape born and produced in Barolo area.” He notes one of the characteristics about the Castello di Perno wines that he is particularly proud of; “there is no blending for any wines, all our wines are made with only one grape and each wine coming from a single vineyard.”
Gian Luca Colombo, at work in his vineyards
There are dozens of Barolo producers crafting excellent wines today, so how do the wines from Castello di Perno stand out in this ultra competitive market? Much of the identity of these examples of Barolo emerge from the site, of course; these are wines with a sense of place. Colombo addresses the specifics of the Castelletto vineyard, which is the source for the classic Barolo as well as a single vineyard Barolo for the winery. “Castelletto is a big cru, with different soils and exposition. The Castello di Perno one, is in the low side, where the soils are in some way closer to those of Serralunga (the neighboring commune).
“We are east-southeast facing, in a cooler area. So Nebbiolo takes longer to get ripe, longer than other villages or area. The Nebbiolo from that area have a lot of deepness, the tannins are intense but smoother than Serralunga, flavors are more in the minty, camphor world, with a little bit of spice and sometimes even some rhubarb and black fruit.”
The wines are also quite elegant with silky tannins; the 2018 Castelletto Barolo being a prime example. The harmony of these wines can definitely be attributed to the winemaking philosophy of Colombo, as his examples of Barolo (and other red wines) reflect varietal purity, very good acidity and restraint; these are not powerful wines that require many years before they are ready. Rather these are versions of Barolo that emphasize charm and typicity, and while they are more approachable than some examples from this area, the wines will improve and drink well often for a decade or more.
Calvaruso sums up the Castello di Perno approach. “I could say Castello di Perno's style is recognizable in three words: Freshness, Drinkability, Elegance. The identity in our wines is characterized from the minerality and the freshness you can feel coming from mostly limestone and clay soils from Monforte.
“There are soft and velvety tannins which make our Barolo enjoyable, drinkable with a modern approach.”
Brief notes on current releases from Castello di Perno:
Langhe Nascetta 2021 - Aromas of lemon zest, chamomile and a hint of jasmine. Medium-bodied with very good freshness, lively acidity, excellent harmony and notable varietal character. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (91)
Barolo 2018 - Aromas of strawberry, morel cherry, carnation and pink roses. Medium-full; delicate use of oak, elegant, silky tannins; very good persistence and acidity. Well made, and quite typical of the subtle nature of the 2018 Barolo vintage. Approachable now; peak in 8-10 years, perhaps longer. (91)
Barolo Castelletto 2018 - Wonderful floral aromas of pink roses and carnation with notes of morel cherry and currant. Lengthy finish, very good acidity, excellent persistence and complexity, silky tannins, lovely complexity; beautiful now; peak in 10-12 years. (93)
Barolo Castelletto 2019 - Strawberry, morel cherry, clove, fig, marjoram and rosemary aromas. Medium-full with excellent ripeness, medium-full tannins, very good persistence and acidity, along with outstanding typicity. Peak in 12-15 years. (92)
Countersunk Hex Bolt Barolo Riserva Perno 2017 - Aromas of eucalyptus, mint, morel cherry and strawberry. Medium-full with very good concentration. Good acidity, restrained wood notes, medium-full tannins, excellent persistence. Give another year or two to round out; peak in 8-10 years. (92)